Wines & Vines: My Journey Through France & Italy – Part II
Bourgogne in Spring: A Week in the Heart of Wine Country
I arrived in Beaune on the evening of Monday, March 31—just as the last light was casting a soft glow over the tiled rooftops. The next morning, April 1, I woke early and wandered the quiet streets. Looking up at the iconic polychrome roof of the Hospices de Beaune, I noticed the Big Dipper glimmering faintly in the dawn sky. It felt like a good omen for the week ahead.
And what a week it was.
A Whirlwind of Winemakers
I hit the ground running, starting with Ann-Caroline at Domaine Sylvain Dussort, then Fabrice at Guy Amiot, followed by Domaine Buisson Battault, and a visit with Jean-Baptiste at Michel Bouzereau—a real honor to meet him. I also spent time with Gilles from Domaine Lafouge.
Between tastings, we lunched at Le Soufflot in Meursault—delicious, of course, and a perfect pause.
Chablis, a Goose, and Spring Frost
April 2 was a little slower. I had the morning to myself and took a long walk before settling into a cafe with an espresso. Then Jeanne-Marie and I grabbed sandwiches from La Fournée Beaunoise to eat on the road to Chablis.
We visited two producers: Domaine des Genèves, where they were prepping wax buckets to fight spring frost (candles to warm the vines), and Domaine Gérard Tremblay, where I met a very friendly goose vying for constant attention.
That night, we picked up fresh groceries from the Beaune market, and Jeanne-Marie cooked a comforting dinner at her home.
Treasures of the Côte de Nuits
April 3 was jam-packed. I met with Domaine Philippe Livera, Domaine René Leclerc (where François gifted me a bottle of 1976 Combes Aux Moines—a total surprise!), Domaine Stéphane Magnien, Domaine Bart, and Domaine Alain Michelot. Lunch at Castel de Très Girard in Morey-Saint-Denis, and dinner back in Beaune at L’Ecusson.
Cowboys and Beaujolais
On April 4, we drove south to Beaujolais and Mâcon. Highlights included Château du Basty (17th generation!) with Quentin and Gilles, Château de Raousset, Domaine Lassarat, Domaine Mathias, and Jean-Marie Chaland from Domaine Sainte Barbe.
No time for fancy lunch that day—so we stopped at Buffalo Grill, a hilariously American cowboy-themed restaurant complete with red vinyl booths and Western decor. Absurd and amazing.
Market Day in Beaune & the Owl Trail in Dijon
Saturday morning (April 5), I explored the vibrant Beaune market—produce, cheeses, meats, spices, and even a flea market. I grabbed a few cheeses and souvenirs for family, then hopped the train to Dijon for their even bigger market.
Lunch with friends at Les Jardins by La Cloche, then an afternoon following Dijon’s Owl Trail, a walking route marked by bronze arrows that lead you through the city’s historical sites. Back in Beaune, I made a quick detour to Alain Hess—their wine cellar below the cheese shop is worth the visit.
Mustard, Museums, and More Meetings
Sunday, April 6, I visited the beautiful Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne museum, followed by a tour at La Moutarderie Fallot (yes, I bought an embarrassing amount of mustard to bring home). Another home-cooked meal at Jeanne-Marie’s rounded out the day.
On Monday, April 7, we started strong—Jeanne-Marie was featured on the front page of the local newspaper! After a celebratory espresso, we visited Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Domaine Paul Pernot, Domaine François & Denis Clair, and Domaine Masse (a very extensive tasting). Lunch at Le Belena, dinner was a quiet solo bite from Banette, a bakery near my apartment.
Sancerre, Fossils, and Frozen Buds
April 8 was an epic day—Jeanne-Marie picked me up at 6:45 a.m. (with pain au chocolat in hand) for a full day in the Loire Valley. We visited Domaine des Buissonnes and Domaine Philippe Raimbault, where I saw a mind-blowing collection of 130+ year-old marine fossils found in their vineyards—and left with a bottle of Sancerre Les Chasseignes.
After a quick (less-than-stellar) lunch at Famille Bourgeois, we stopped at Château Favray in Pouilly-Fumé. There, I learned how frost-prevention sprinklers create a cocoon of ice around budding vines—insulating them like eggshells and keeping them from freezing. So cool. We ended the day at Domaine de Chevilly in Quincy and drove the long way back to Beaune, arriving around 10 p.m.
Mayors, Monks, and Monuments
April 9 included a visit to Domaine Jean Pascal—Alexandra Pascal is also the mayor of Puligny-Montrachet(!)—and Domaine Claudie Jobard, followed by lunch at L’Agastache. Later that day, I met Domaine Parent, where Anne Parent told me, “Burgundy is complex, not complicated.”
With some time to spare, I toured the Hospices de Beaune. If you ever go, don’t skip it. The history, the architecture—breathtaking.
April 10 brought visits to Domaine Jean Féry, Domaine Joliet (a former 12th-century Cistercian monastery turned estate—wine has been made there for nearly 900 years!), Domaine Nicole Lamarche, and Paul Chollet, with lunch at Au Clos Napoléon.
The Last Sip
Friday, April 11, my final appointment was with Domaine François Gaunoux. Afterward, I did some laundry, took one last slow walk through Beaune, and grabbed a sandwich and a final pain au chocolat to savor as I said goodbye to this magical town.
What I Brought Home (Besides Wine)
This trip deepened my understanding of Bourgogne’s soul: the quiet dedication of its winemakers, the nuances of each terroir, the balance of history and innovation. I brought back wine, mustard, cheese, a goose story, a cowboy lunch memory, and the feeling that Bourgogne is more than a wine region—it’s a living, breathing culture.
I can’t wait to share these stories (and a few special bottles) with you.