Wines & Vines: My Journey Through France & Italy – Part III
Piemonte in April: A Wine Lover’s Springtime Dream
On the morning of Saturday, April 12, I began an unforgettable journey from Beaune to the heart of Piemonte. I woke at 6:00 a.m. and caught the 7:03 train to Lyon, watching the sun rise over Bourgogne’s quiet spring vineyards. After transferring trains in Lyon at 9:30, I traveled through the Italian Alps—snow still dusting the peaks—and rolled into Milano by 2:07 p.m.
Then came the classic travel hiccup: no working wifi on my phone. With no map and limited Italian, I wandered through the streets of Milano near the train station to find the car rental office. Eventually, I got my little manual Fiat 500 and was off. I knew my destination of Barolo was south of Torino. I soon found the autostrade and followed traffic signs toward the city of Torino. Halfway there, my husband wisely suggested I restart my phone—and voilà! Wifi returned, Waze was working, and I was properly en route to Langhe.
I checked into Ca’ San Ponzio (website), a place I’d return to in a heartbeat. Cozy, rustic, and quietly elegant, it felt like a home you didn’t know you missed. Each morning started with an espresso by the fireplace in the comfiest chair, followed by a breakfast spread so indulgent I once had three different slices of cake before 10 a.m. Local cheeses, cured meats, fresh berries, and cakes, jams, and honeys—every bite celebrated the region.
Their wine cellar? Open anytime, with a selection of bottles and glasses from all over Langhe—some you’ll recognize from our shelves at University Wines. Hazelnuts and grissini were on hand to snack while sipping.
That first evening, I walked to Buon Padre, the beloved restaurant of Claudio Viberti, a gracious host who welcomed me like family. His mother, Maria, has been making her signature tajarin—those delicate, egg-rich noodles—since 1967. That dinner was the first of many shared meals (and wines, including a memorable 1989 Viberti Barolo Brico delle Viole) during my three days as his guest.
On April 13, lunch was at Claudio’s second restaurant, La Gemella (website), named in honor of his mother, a twin. That afternoon, Claudio took me on a tour of Barolo and his vineyards—his deep pride in the land was palpable. Dinner at Buon Padre that evening brought a completely new lineup of dishes and wines, preceded by a tasting in the cellar.
April 14 included a visit to the Viberti winery and a tour led by their oenologist through vineyards on the way to La Morra. We stopped for hazelnut sweets (mandatory in Piemonte), then had lunch at Osteria More e Macine (Facebook), a local favorite. That evening? You guessed it—more cellar tastings and dinner at Buon Padre.
April 15 was my last morning at Ca’ San Ponzio. After one final decadent breakfast, I drove to Canelli to explore the spectacular Contratto (website) wine cellars—a UNESCO World Heritage site often called a “Cathedral of Wine.” I met Mario, the man who hand-riddles all their sparkling wines (yes, all of them), and tasted through the lineup with local antipasti. They even sent me home with bottles of their Contrattino Aperitivo Tonic—unavailable in the U.S.—which I couldn’t wait to open.
Next, I tasted wines from La Spinetta (website), where lunch was cooked by Giovanna Rivetti herself. It was such a pleasure to spend time with her over a meal and beautiful wines. Later that day, I met and tasted with Reverdito (website), who sent me off with a bottle of their 2017 Barolo Badarina to enjoy with my dinner. That night, I arrived at my Airbnb in Castellinaldo d’Alba (listing). Gorgeous, serene, and comfortable—it made the perfect home base. I poured a glass of La Spinetta Il Rosé di Casanova and started a much-needed load of laundry.
April 16 began with a meeting with the incredible Chiara Boschis of E. Pira (website). A true pioneer, she’s one of the first women producers of Barolo and a champion of sustainability in the region. I also visited Sottimano, whose wine library was a thing of beauty. Dinner was just down the hill at La Roerina di Elisa, a perfect cap to the day.
On April 17, I visited Fratelli Revello (website), tasting wines while overlooking vineyards framed by floor-to-ceiling windows. That afternoon, I spent over four hours at Fratelli Casetta (website), where Ernesto Casetta shared stories of his vines, his family, and the land with warmth and wisdom. Every bottle felt like a living piece of history.
April 18 brought a visit to Francesco and Giuseppe Bertolino (website), a small family-run winery in Montegrosso d’Asti. We shared lunch at Locanda del Boscogrande (website), surrounded by rolling hills and spring sunlight. After a final stroll through Castellinaldo d’Alba, I packed up for my journey to Alsace the next morning.
From glorious meals and gracious hosts to breathtaking vineyards and unforgettable wines, my spring in Piemonte felt like a love letter to everything I cherish about the world of wine. I can’t wait to share more of these wines with you in-store—and hopefully inspire your own journey to this special region.